We left Valdez on July 12, Sunday. We had the most wonderful
time there. The Columbia Glacier cruise we took was wonderful. The sun actually
made an appearance and it made a tremendous difference in color and warmth. The
glacier calved small bits while we were about ¼ of a mile from it. It is one
big glacier too. Interestingly, there is an amazing optical illusion that is
created by the sound water and the glacier when you are about 13 miles from it.
Suddenly the glacier looks to be twice as tall and huge then as you approach
closer the vision pops back to reality. The sea otters were out in force
floating on the ice bergs. Although they were wary of the boat, they also were
very curious which made for great photos.
The pink salmon were just beginning to run and fishing
season for the professional fishermen had just started when we took our glacier
cruise. It was very interesting to learn what the duties were of the different
types of boats. All were using the “purse seining” technique. This was very
interesting to watch how the nets scoop up the fish and get them into the
fishing boat. Then the tender comes in…these are the big boats you see on
Deadliest Catch…and buys the fish on the spot, siphons them up and eventually
takes them directly to the processing plant in Valdez.
While in Valdez, we also went to the Solomon Creek Fish
Hatchery to see the salmon returning to their birthplace. It was so exciting to
also get to see the sea lions feeding on the salmon. Again, because of the
confines of the area, we were able to take amazing close ups of not only the
salmon but of the sea lions as well. A few harbor seals were also lingering
nearby but they never came in close enough for us to photograph them. This
hatchery is a good location to see bears at low tide. Unfortunately, we never
were able to get back at low tide. We met an interesting employee of the fish
hatchery who told us they actually can tell hatchery fish from wild fish by
some rings on their ear bones so they have people at the processing plants whose
job is to excise the ear bones from the salmon. The bones are then analyzed to
see the ratio of wild to hatchery fish which helps the fish and game people and
fishermen know what limits will be set on fish catches.
Because we became interested in the history of Valdez post
the 1964 earthquake, we toured both history museums then drove out to Old
Valdez town site. To see the photos of the before and after just really made an
impact. My husband and I were in high school when the earthquake occurred but
all we saw on TV or read in the papers concerned Anchorage. Kodiak, Valdez and
Seward lost their docks and many people. Whole communities were destroyed if
not by the earthquake then by the tsunami that followed. The movie that the
Valdez historical society put together on the earthquake and aftermath was
extremely well done.
Valdez is by far my favorite ocean town in Alaska. It is not
as funky as Homer and is more friendly than Seward. We loved having our camp
spot right on the bay front so we could enjoy all the activity. Between fishing
boats, the ferry and private boats there is a lot of activity to watch. Town is
small enough you can walk everywhere. There were great places to eat and
interesting people to visit with.
So when we left Valdez, we drove to McCarthy, Alaska. Now,
in all the guide books this road is hair raising and tire damaging but that is
not what we found. Unfortunately, it was raining so our views of the scenery
were a bit limited but the road was fine, a little narrow in places maybe. When
we reached McCarthy we were a little taken back by the “campground”. Now I use
the term campground very loosely…80 acres of glacier debris and two out houses,
no garbage containers, no fresh water and showers, forget about it. All for a
mere $20 per night or you can just park for $5 per day. After finally locating
a semi-level, relatively boulder free spot, we set up camp. People were camped
all over the place with no organization to the whole operation. It was
interesting to say the least. Now we were surprised to discover the Kennicott
Glacier dominating the view from the bridge across the Kennicott River. It is
massive and the ice comes down the river almost 30 miles from the glacier. Of
course by the campground the glacier looks like huge piles of rock and dirt. It
is only as you get closer that you understand the rocks and dirt are on top of
300 feet of ice! We did see photos taken in the 1920’s where there was another
3-400 feet more ice on this gravelly area of the glacier.
The walk to McCarthy, which was the bar and red light
district when the mine at Kennicott was in operation, is only about ¾ of a
mile. There is a footbridge across the Kennicott River. Not too many years ago,
you pulled yourself across the river in a basket dangling from a cable! McCarthy
is tiny with all its power provided by a generator, summer and winter.
Surprising, about a dozen people live there year round. This is a very isolated
town. You must have all your food and other supplies on hand no later than the
first of October. The road is not plowed in winter. The airport shuts down for
winter. You are totally on your own from October until May.
It has a cute little museum and several small businesses
including a bar, restaurant, hotel, coffee shop and a couple of backpacker
hostels. We supported the tiny general store where we had two scoops of ice
cream for $10! The other businesses deal with glacier hikes and rafts trips or
kayak trips or with the airport which flies people to and from the area as well
as flightseeing tours.
The foot bridge across the Kennicott River is interesting.
It was supposed to be strictly pedestrian but people discovered they could
squeeze a Subaru or other small vehicle across the bridge. So the bridge was
blocked with concrete and steel posts and people came in and cut the posts off
at ground level and threw them in the river…twice. Finally, the National Park
put buffers that restricted the width that could use the bridge. Well, then
came the small ATV’s that can just squeeze passed the narrow points and race
right across the bridge. Pedestrian traffic is “supposed” to have the right
away but we were nearly run over by two teens on an ATV in a hurry to get
across.
Monday morning, we rode the shuttle ($5/person one way) up
to the Kennicott Site to take the walking tour of the mill and town. Kennicott
is preserved remarkably well. The recreation hall is still used by the locals
for meeting and dances as it was when the mine was in operation. Several of the
houses are lived in by park staff and the mine’s management living quarters has
been turned into the Kennicott Glacier Lodge. I do not know what the rooms are
like but the restaurant is excellent.
Our tour of town and the mill was great. The young man who
was our guide was knowledgeable and entertaining. Luckily we had a small group
so it was easy to see things and hear the comments. The mill is unique and the
Park Service is stabilizing and repairing it so it will last long into the
future. We climbed through the trees to the top of the mill where the tram cars
from the Jumbo Mine and from the Bonanza Mine delivered ore. The mines were 5
miles up the hill…the very steep hill. The miners actually lived at the mines.
There were houses up there for them but during the winter they lived in the
mine itself because it was warmer than the houses.
This was a unique mining situation. The copper ore was
incredibly pure. The chalcocite was 70% copper and there were nuggets of raw
copper in the limestone matrix. This was one rich copper mine. At first the
mill simply crushed the rock, loaded on the train and shipped it to Cordova
where it was loaded onto ships and sent to Tacoma, Washington for smelting. The
silver content was pure gravy and paid all the overhead. A railroad track was
built especially for the Kennicott site from Cordova to Kennicott. Two thousand
employees kept the track and train in repair and hauled the ore out and
supplies in summer and winter.
Once the rich, virtually pure deposits were exhausted, then
the mill added chemical processes to extract as much copper from the limestone
matrix as they could. Besides chalcocite, the mine had azurite and malachite in
great quantities. Several different processes were tried with limited success
until they began a floatation process which improved the amounts of copper
recovered…remember this was all going on during the early 1900’s. The mine
finally shutdown in 1938 because the costs were not being covered by product. A
contractor was hired to remove all the structures but luckily he did not
fulfill his contract. When the National Parks bought the property some
structures still had plates and furniture. The Park Service are currently
restoring some structures and stabilizing other. It was a wonderful place to
visit for Jerry and I since we both grew up in copper mining towns.
One other point of interest is a railroad trestle, the
Gilahina Trestle. This trestle is 90 feet high, 880 feet long and was built in
8 days during a January cold spell of -67 degrees. Can you even believe the
hardship the workers must have suffered during the building?
On Tuesday, July 14, 2015, we left the marvelous (joke
people) campground at McCarthy and headed to the other side of the Wrangell
National Park. We had lunch in Glennallen and camped for the night at the
Grizzly Lake RV Park. The little lake is lovely.
Wednesday, July 15, 2015 we took the Nabesna Road into the
northside of the Wrangell-St Elias National Park. This road eventually ends at
the Nabesna Mine. This gold mine was active until 1947 but is still in private
ownership and occasionally still worked. If the clouds hadn’t insisted upon
hanging so low, we would have had nice views of Mt. Sanford, Mt. Drummond and
partial views of Mt. Wrangell. On a clear day, you can see plumes of steam from
Mt. Wrangell, the only active volcano in this group.
We camped at the crossing over Jack Creek. This creek is
interesting because it flows north into the Tanana/Yukon River drainage instead
of into the Copper River drainage as most of the other rivers in the area do.
The camp site was quiet and entertaining. While snacking on peanuts, we had a
friendly squirrel climb up my chair and sit on my shoulder begging for a
handout. Jerry gave him a peanut and had a buddy. The squirrel would sit on his
lap. A group of 4 Whiskey Jacks (gray jays) then came up to join the fun. While
they were a little more reserved than the squirrel, they were so close we could
touch them. Then a mama spruce grouse brought her brood over to show them off.
One was a small male who delighted in fanning his tail and parading around.
They all took dust baths and rested for a while under the camper. Later we
finally saw Dall sheep…only two…high on the volcanic cliffs across from us. It
was a delightful camping spot.
This morning, Thursday, July 16, 2015, we drove to Tok along
the Tok Cutoff Highway. This is extremely scenic and we very much enjoyed the
drive. The chores in Tok were refueling, washing the rig and lunch at Fast
Eddie’s. We had wonderful food there when we first hit Tok way back in early
June so we really wanted to try it again. The food was wonderful again! Now we
are camped at Border City Campground…not a 5 star establishment by any means
but we wanted to be able to cross the border early in the day tomorrow and this
is as close as you can get without crossing.
Our stop in Skagway was a shocking experience. We never
expected to fight our way through streets clogged with 6,000 cruise ship people
the first day we were there and 10,000 the second day. Once we accepted that
the gold rush was still going on only now the stampeders were cruisers and
instead of 38 saloons there were 38 jewelry shops. However, town was quiet once
the ships left port in the evening. Everything is within walking distance or
there are buses and tour cars to take you everywhere…for a price. It was
extremely noisy where we camped on the waterfront with the tour buses and
trains moving people and supplies for the cruise ships. The small boat harbor
is very small and there is no fishing activities to watch…besides you cannot
really see the ocean for the big ships. There is a great little museum and some
interesting exhibits if you are willing to make the effort to fine them. A trip
to Dyea, the real start of the Chilkoot Trail that the gold rushers used, is
interesting and worth the time.
Hyder, Alaska is the "friendliest ghost town in Alaska". Yes, it is. It is definitely worth a visit for the Salmon Glacier alone but when the salmon are running, the bear viewing center is exceptional. We saw two grizzlies and a black bear. The grizzlies were definitely catching salmon but the black bear was more interested in blueberries. After leaving Hyder, we spent the night nearby at Meziadin Lake. We took a stroll through the campground. No sooner had we returned to our campsite than a black bear appeared at our site. Now, was he following us through the park or was it sheer coincidence? We don't know but a couple walking dogs scared him off. In Alaska and Canada as well, if you plan on any backcountry hiking, I do recommend carrying bear spray and be noisy. Black bear are everywhere and while they seem to be wary of humans, it would be much better not to surprise them or get between mama and cub.
And now for some thoughts about the Alaska Trip.
First, all the young people you meet as tour guides are from
somewhere else. All of them come to Alaska for the adventure, every summer then
travel or work at ski resorts in the lower 48 all winter. All are bright, passionate
about the state and love adventure. We had a young National Parks Ranger
explain it all to us. She graduated from college in 2007. No jobs were
available at all in her field or any other field. The recession was full blown.
So she went to Alaska for grins, became a ranger and spends her summers in
Alaska while getting her doctorate during the winter. She hopes the economy
will be better when she gets her degree.
Most of the travelers you meet are from somewhere else
usually Germany. On our boat cruises, we rarely heard English spoken, except by
the people guiding the cruise.
The worst campground-Centennial Campground in Anchorage
(although Border City is a close second). The best campground was Bear Paw RV
Park in Valdez. It was the friendliest with the nicest showers and best washers
and dryers. Plus the view was to die for. Oh, I am not supposed to mention that
because then the campground will be too popular.
I cannot pick the best restaurant we ate at because most
were wonderful. Fast Eddie’s in Tok is worth a stop. Best halibut meal…the Gold
Rush in Seward. Best hamburger…Old Town Burgers in Valdez. We even eat at two
Mexican food restaurants…very, very mild but good food, just not Mexican as we
know and love. Favorite restaurant...Klondike Kate's in Dawson City.
Most fun town Valdez, hands down. The busiest town, Skagway.
Take a small town and add 6,000 to 10,000 visitors daily all summer long and
you get pure craziness. The cell services is poor but with that many people
trying to use it, you cannot even send a text until the cruise ships pull out
in the evening.
Now would I go to Alaska again, sure. Certain places
deserved more time. I would love to go back to Eagle. It was beautiful there.
Valdez, yes. Seward, yes. Homer…the bagels are out of this world and the beach
was a great walking beach…maybe. I did fall in love with Yukon Territory in
Canada and would like to see more of it. And British Columbia is fantastic, especially in the National Parks.
All the other campers we met along the way were on their
second, third, fourth or more trip into Alaska. They fell in love with a piece
of Alaska and go back as often as they can.
I do recommend if you decide to do a blog of your trip that
it will be difficult to find any wifi service throughout Canada and Alaska. In
Canada you will not have much phone service to begin with anyway even with an
add-on Canadian plan.
The roads are in a lot better shape than guide books warn
you about. You must be patient though because summer is the only time to get
road maintenance done. Check with visitors centers if you have any questions
about road conditions. Some roads are just not suitable for pulling a long
trailer. They are unpaved, narrow with no place to pull over or turn around. We
did see novice RVer’s on roads they should not have traveled and they did
survive but we also saw them back into trees and telephone poles too.
Thompson Pass going into Valdez gets 50 feet of snow per year not 550...why doesn't auto correct work for numbers? So does White Pass going into Skagway. Now you see why the highways are closed during the winter. The trip was a wonderful adventure.